Pan Pot 200
The pan pot, when it does need repotting. Wide and shallow suits a sparse root system, and a Hoya in a shallow pot dries between drinks the way it wants to.
200 mm across, 98 mm tall. Holds 1.75 litres. Rim diameter from 160 to 300 mm.
1 pieces
What we would put a Hoya in
Every one printed to order in Yerevan at the size you ask for. Tap a code, send a photo of the plant and the pot it is in now, and a size comes back the same day.
Start from this drawing and change everything
Or draw your own, starting from the Hoop Trellis 240.
The editor opens on our shape for a Hoya: the proportion, the drainage and whether there is a reservoir at all are already set the way this page argues for. Then every slider moves. Worth changing for a Hoya:
- Hoop diameter, 160 to 280 mm, from the length of vine you have to train
- The fan instead, 240 to 600 mm, in sections, if it is going up a wall
- A pan pot underneath, 160 to 300 mm, only if it genuinely needs repotting
The ones to skip
We make these and they are good pieces. They are not for this plant, and here is the reason in each case.
- Flush Vessel 180Self-watering. A Hoya on a reservoir rots at the base.
- Wick Trough 280Self-watering.
- Stack Pole 300A Hoya twines. It grips a thin bar or a hoop and it slides off a broad moss pole, which is a Monstera's support and not this plant's.
- Wall Cup 160The sealed sump under the false floor is exactly the wrong thing under these roots.
The numbers we draw to
- How much wider than the root ball
- 10 mm, and only when roots are coming out of the hole
- Depth
- 80 to 100 mm of medium. The pan at 200 mm gives 78 mm and that is plenty
- Support
- A hoop of 160 to 280 mm, or a fan to 600 mm in sections
- Repotting
- Every second or third year. Repotting a Hoya in bud costs you the flowers
- On a reservoir
- No
These are the figures the pieces are drawn to rather than measurements taken off a finished one, and they are a starting point for your plant rather than a rule. Send us what it is in now and we will move them.
Do not cut the spent flower stalk
This is the single most useful thing anybody can tell a new Hoya owner. The flowers come off a short woody spur, and the same spur flowers again, year after year. Tidy it away after the blooms drop and you have removed next summer's flowers.
So the support matters more than it looks. A plant trained round a hoop keeps its spurs accessible and undisturbed, where a plant that is untangled and re-wound every few months loses them to tidying.
The mix
Open and coarse: orchid bark, perlite, a little coir, some growers add charcoal. If you would be happy putting a Phalaenopsis in it, a Hoya will be happy in it too.
The leaves are the reservoir. That is the whole trick of the plant, and it means the pot can be small and the mix can be lean without the plant minding.
Small pot, on purpose
A Hoya that is repotted generously stops flowering and puts everything into vine. Kept in the pot it has, with roots filling it, it flowers. We are not going to sell you a bigger pot for a plant that will punish you for it.
The one exception is a pot that has gone sour: mix that has broken down to a fine wet paste, no bark structure left, water sitting on the top. That gets repotted whatever the plant is doing, into the same size pot with fresh coarse mix.
Watering and light
Soak through, drain completely, let it get properly dry, then soak again. Wrinkled leaves say water; soft or blackened stems at the base say you already did.
Flowering wants brightness: the sunniest window in the flat short of scorching afternoon glass. A Hoya in a dim corner is a healthy plant that never blooms, which is the commonest complaint we hear about them.